Discover Egypt in Rome..

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Ancient Rome discovers the charm of Egyptian culture in the first century b.C. , after the conquests of Julius Caesar and Augustus.

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Since that time, the Egyptian evidences in the city multiply. .and we are not only talking about the obelisks.

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Lets think of the Cestia Pyramid, the tomb of a rich politician; covered in Carrara marble, has survived to marble looters because it belongs within the defensive walls, as a fortified tower. But this was not the only pyramid in Rome.,

One stood in the area now occupied by the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli in Piazza del Popolo. Another pyramid was in the Vatican area, at the beginning of the current Via della Conciliazione, it was demolished in 1499, but appears in the bronze doors designed by Filarete for the St. Peter’s Basilica and in the fresco “The appearance of the Cross” by Giulio Romano in the Sala di Costantino in the Vatican Palaces.Obelisks and pyramids: a corner of Egypt on the Tiber. But in the city there were also temples and sacelli (shrines – small sacred buildings ) dedicated to the Egyptian gods , especially Isis and Serapis. Unfortunately, very little remains.

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The most important temple, of Isis and Serapis Campense, was located in the area of the Pantheon. The remains lie beneath the palace of the seminary and the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva and Santo Stefano del Cacco. The strange name of this church comes from the discovery of a statue of the Egyptian god Anubis with the head in the shape of dog: the Romans , thinking it was a monkey, had called the ” macacco ” following “cacco”..that actually in Italian sounds a bit wacky 😉

The obelisks of Piazza Navona, Piazza della Rotonda , Piazza della Minerva and Piazza dei Cinquecento come from the Campense temple.

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On the slopes of the Quirinale’s hill there was the temple of Serapis: the remains are still visible between the Palazzo Colonna and the Gregorian University in Piazza della Pilotta.

Even on the Aventine, there was a temple dedicated to Serapis; what remains is lying beneath the church of Santa Sabina.

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Among via Labicana and the Colosseum , is positioned piazza Iside, an important place of worship, you can admire today the impressive remains inserted between the Roman buildings of 19th century.

There are numerous Egyptian sculptures in the city: the statue of the Nile, now in the Chiaramonti Vatican Museum; the two lions that decorate the “Fontain dell’acqua Felice” at the corner in Via XX Settembre; lions at the foot of the steps of the Campidoglio (Capitol); a statue in Piazza San Marco (the Roman one!), adjacent to Piazza Venezia, depicting Isis or a priestess (the Romans, who rank among the so-called talking statues , call her Madama Lucrezia – See our previous post: https://seadreamsexcursions.wordpress.com/2014/01/31/the-talking-statues-of-rome/ ).

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 Still, a large marble foot  gives its name to the homonymous street, a statue of the Egyptian cult; and , finally, a marble cat walled on the ledge of Palazzo Grazioli: Of course, we are in Via della Gatta (the street of the cat).

Image I find this Egyptian presence into one of the world’s richest Capital a really interesting story! Too bad not much remains.. but it’s like a city treasure hunt and it fits very well with ancient Egypt; it enriches the Eternal City of charm and mystery!

 

 

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Secret Rome: lesser-known attractions.

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Our Rome expert reveals some of her favorite lesser-known attractions in the Eternal City.

ImageSan Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. Via del Quirinale 23, 00187

What an architectural marvel San Carlo is! Enter this ingenious little church, by Baroque maverick Francesco Borromini, and you’d hardly guess that the whole footprint was the size of one of the pilasters of St Peter’s (this is why locals refer to it affectionately as San Carlino – ‘Little Saint Charles’). The tortured, bipolar architect twisted lines and space to such an extent that volumes seem to appear out of nowhere in this oval creation, lit beautifully by high windows. There’s a tiny courtyard with perfectly proportioned Corinthian columns. And when the monks are in the mood, they’ll show you their extraordinary library too. For another miniature Borromini masterpiece, visit the vertiginous church of Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, at Corso Rinascimento 40.

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Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, at Corso Rinascimento 40.

Protestant cemetery

That Keats and Shelley should be buried in this lovely place beneath the shadow of Rome’s only pyramid is particularly fitting: the cemetery is hopelessly romantic. It was my green refuge of choice when I lived just down the road in the Testaccio district. The cemetery grew up here because it lies ‘beyond the pale’, just outside the town walls. Non-Catholics struggled to be allowed a burial in papal Rome, and even after this patch of land was granted to them in the early 18th century, funerals tended to take place quietly, often at night.

Since 1953, this graveyard has officially been known not as the ‘Protestant’ but as the ‘Acatholic cemetery’: Muslims, Buddhists, Zoroastrians… and Antonio Gramsci, founder of the Italian Communist Party, are buried here. But for most Romans, it’s the old name that sticks. Across Via Zabaglia at the south western end of the cemetery is the equally poignant British military cemetery, where a piece of Hadrian’s wall has been brought back to the ancient metropolis.

ImageProtestant cemetery. Via Caio Cestio 6, 00153

San Clemente

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One of Rome’s most worthwhile but least publicised sightseeing treats, this historically-layered cake descends from a street-level medieval and early-Renaissance church, with frescoes by Masolino, via a fourth-century early Christian church to the basement remains of a second-century insula (apartment block), complete with shrine to Mithras. When down here, listen for the sound of running water: an ancient sewer passes close by before dumping its contents in the Tiber. The main church is free, but the two lower levels carry an entrance charge. (Via Labicana 95, 00184)

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The #Talking #Statues of #Rome

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Did you know that inRome they have “talking statues”?

Come find out what is all about..

The so-called “talking statues” are the means by which Rome has always been opposed to the arrogance and corruption of the ruling classes with a great and unique sense of humor.

Since the beginning of the Sixteenth Century , had begun to spread a kind of rebellion to power, with billboards night of epigrams in Latin or Italian at a number of statues that stood in crowded places of the city, so that everyone could read the messages in the morning, before they were removed by the guards. And the authors, of course, remained unknown.

The signs were sometimes poems, sometimes humorous dialogues: from this tradition arose a literary satire denouncing immorality and abuse of power by the mighty men of Rome, but in most cases the target of satire were the pope or the nobility related to him.

Not infrequently then, the buyers of satires were prelates and nobles who wanted to defame those who held the power to take over them.

The people began to assign nicknames to these statues, of which the most famous was “Pasquino” and from here was derived the tradition of calling satires as “Pasquinate” (of Pasquino or from Pasquino).

The production of “Pasquinate”, written even in dialect in Nineteenth Century, continued uninterruptedly until the fall of the temporal power of the Popes and occasional mild forms has continued to the present day: many talking statues seem to have lost the word , but remain however firmly in place .

Pasquino

From 1501 “Pasquino” is located behind the beautiful Piazza Navona, in a small open space named Pasquino square after the statue.

It is a torso of a male figure, probably from the Third Century BC It is so badly preserved that saying certainty who it represents is almost impossible, perhaps a king or a maybe a hero from ancient Greece.

Although little is known about the origin of the nickname, legend has it that the statue had been discovered at a barber shop (or according to another version, a tavern) whose owner was called Pasquino.

One of the most famous joke (Pasquinate) written on it, is the one directed to Pope Urban VIII of the Barberini family, who ordered to remove the Bernini bronze parts from the Pantheon for the realization of the great canopy of S.Peter (1633): “Quod non fecerunt barbarians, fecerunt Barberini” ruled Pasquino.

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Marforio 
Another statue is known as “Marforio”, a long bearded figure lying on a side, which decorates the courtyard of the Palazzo Nuovo, a wing of the Capitoline Museums. Perhaps it is an allegory of a river, probably the Tiber, or maybe it’s Neptune, the God of the seas. His original place of provenance is the Roman Forum, from where it was moved in the late Sixteenth Century.
Marforio was considered the “shoulder” of Pasquino, because some of the satire in the two statues spoke to each other: one was asking questions about social problems or policy, and the other gave witty answers.

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Il Facchino  (the porter)

The “Porter” is a small fountain that represents a male figure, whose face is almost completely deteriorated, he’s pouring water from a barrel, the dress worn by the figure is the typical costume of the guild of porters, from which the name of the character.

The statue was originally located on the main facade of Palazzo De Carolis (Via del Corso) then, in 1874, was moved to the Via Lata, just around the corner.

It dates back to the second half of the Sixteenth Century, and according to a popular tradition was inspired by the figure of a “acquarolo”, the one who collected water from public fountains to sell it doorto door at moderate prices.

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Madama Lucrezia

This huge marble bust, about 3 meters high, is located at the corner of Palazzetto Venezia, in Piazza San Marco. Probably comes from a temple dedicated to Isis and depicts a woman, perhaps a priestess of this cult or perhaps the same as Isis. The nickname comes from the noblewoman Lucrezia d’Alagna, favored by Alfonso of Aragon, King of Naples, who spent his life and lived at the above place in the second half of the fifteenth century.

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Abate Luigi

“Fui dell’alma Roma un cittadino

ora abate Luigi ognun mi chiama

conquistai con Marforio e con Pasquino

dalla satira urbana eterna fama;

ebbi offese, disgrazie e sepoltura,

ma qui vita novella e alfin sicura.”

“I was a citizen of the Soul of Rome

Abbot Luigi now every one calls me

conquered with Marforio and with Pasquino

from urban satire an eternal fame;

I was offended, had misfortunes and burial,

but here at last a safe new life” (more or less this is the meaning)

This brief epitaph reads on the basis that the claims’ “Abate Luigi” in Vidoni square, not far from Piazza Navona, on the left wall of the church of S. Andrea della Valle.

The statue depicts a man in a typical toga of the late Roman era and the nickname was probably inspired by the sacristan of the nearby church of the Shroud (chiesa del Sudario), which, according to popular tradition, resembled very much the statue.

The square was the location of the original ‘”Abate”, but over the centuries it changed location several times and  held in low esteem until in 1924, when it was relocated in the same mall.

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the Baboon

The “Baboon” (il babbuino) is a recumbent figure of Silenus, in front of the church of St.Attanasio of the Greeks, in Via del Babuino. Constitutes the decorative element for a fountain, once used to water the horses on the edge of which the old character is lying since the Renaissance.

The nickname given to the figure is the result of the grinning face of Silenus, the Romans, seeing in it the shape of a monkey, now renamed “baboon”.

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